By Cameron Wilson
As the home of iconic surf labels Quicksilver, Rip Curl and Billabong and birthplace of a long line of world surfing champions, Australia could probably be forgiven for taking itself a bit too seriously when it comes to surf culture.
Happily however, the experience of paddling onto a wave here is considered the God-given right of anyone who wants to have a go. For those who dream of riding a board for the very first time, there’s no place better to learn how it’s done. For the purists and wave-riding wizards, the following is a “Top Ten” of the best surf beaches in Australia.
North Narrabeen – Sydney, New South Wales
Sydney’s northern beaches are so collectively splendid it’s tempting to include more than one, but ‘North Narra’ is the firm favourite among local board-riders. The run-off from Narrabeen Lake helps form a sandbank that shapes the waves into classic sets, while the deep water offshore allows them to break more powerfully than elsewhere along the peninsula.
Tamarama – Sydney, New South Wales
Known in Sydney’s east as ‘Glamour-ama’ (due to the alleged abundance of models who sunbathe on what must close to the skinniest strip of sand in the state), Tamarama holds two further distinctions: the number of rescues carried out here makes it officially Australia’s most dangerous patrolled beach; and when the swell really rolls in, an offshore rock shelf shapes a stunning twelve- to fifteen-foot wave that draws committed board-riders, dozens of surf photographers and hundreds of onlookers, taking in a grand Sydney spectacle from the cliffs above.
Bells Beach – Torquay, Victoria
Historically and spiritually, Bells Beach is the home of Australian surfing – and still the site of the world’s oldest and most prestigious professional surfing event (nowadays named the Rip Curl Pro, the winner still receives the traditional clanging bell trophy). Swells from the Southern Ocean slow and steepen over the shallow reefs to produce outstanding surf that can rise to fifteen feet or more. Their shape is famously consistent too, because the sea-bed is not especially sandy and hence not prone to the variability caused by shifting sandbars.
Boomerang Beach – Pacific Palms, New South Wales
Besides having a wonderfully evocative name, Boomerang is the pick of the beaches along the gloriously unspoilt Forster-Tuncurry coast of mid-north NSW. The ocean peels perfectly around Boomerang’s northern headland, where surfers and swimmers alike are often treated to a visit from the local dolphins – that seem to get a kick out of showing the humans what real surfing looks like.
Kirra Beach – Coolangatta, Queensland
It would be hard to exclude Kirra’s world famous point break even if it hadn’t been nominated by seven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater as his favourite place to surf. And alongside this endorsement from the greatest pro surfer of all time stands eloquent testimony from thousands of young hotshots who have trotted back along the Kirra sands after paddling onto one flawless face after the next: “Mate, I’m stoked.”
Byron Bay – northern New South Wales
Surfers may argue over whether the finest wave can be found at Tallows, Main Beach, Belongil or elsewhere along the Byron Bay coast, but the unarguable factor here has always been the vibe. Kombi vans, dreadlocks, leather jewellery, communal drumming, the subtle waft of marijuana smoke, and a collective feeling that there’s nothing to do tomorrow but get up and do it all again still belong here as nowhere else.
Lennox Head – northern New South Wales
Two factors have conspired to make Lennox Head one of Australia’s premier surfing destinations: its right-hand point break rivals the one just over the Queensland border at Kirra Beach, and a growing contingent of surfers have effectively colonised the place, after deciding they “just can’t do Byron”. As one enthusiast put it to me, “Lennox has the surfing community vibe of Byron Bay, without all the freaks and fire dancers”.
Yallingup – Margaret River, Western Australia
The tiny resort village of Yallingup marks the beginning of the famed Margaret River region, where wine buffs and wave-heads have long converged in more-or-less equal numbers. With a lovely clean strip of sand and several breaks that range from mild to monstrous depending on the swell, Yallingup is widely considered the best “all-round” surf destination on Australia’s west coast. Catch a wave at each of the breaks known locally as “The Three Bears” (that’s Papa, Mama and Baby Bear).
Prevelly Park – Margaret River, Western Australia
This is the heart of serious Margaret River surfing territory, where swells of twenty feet and more get spun into picture-perfect barrels by the shallow offshore reef. Surfers’ Point (OK, they could have tried harder to think of a name for it) even draws the big-name big-wave lunatics from Hawaii; it’s also one of the few places in Australia where board-riders wear helmets and nobody laughs at them. A bit hardcore for most of us, but Prevelly Park is absolutely worth a visit if only to watch some of the world’s best monster wave specialists do their thing.
Eaglehawk Neck – southeast Tasmania
Best known for the part it once played in Australia’s convict history, Eaglehawk Neck is the narrow sandbar prisoners once had to brave if they did manage to escape the infamous Port Arthur penal colony. History aside, waves generated in the Tasman Sea roll in to Pirate’s Bay and break along Eaglehawk Neck in incredibly long, smooth sets. The water’s cold but incredibly clean – a fact clearly appreciated by the wildlife, judging by the number of whales, dolphins and seals that can often be seen gambolling offshore.
Learn-to-surf in Australia
It costs around £20 to attend a group class (£30-£40 for a private session) which can run from two to four hours. As girls now rival the boys in number, many schools offer girls-only classes with female instructors.
The schools listed below are in great learn-to-surf locations and have experienced instructors accredited by Surfing Australia. For a comprehensive list of accredited schools around the country, check surfingaustralia.com.
Bondi Beach – Sydney, New South Wales: Bondi is at its best in summer because it faces south and is protected from the prevailing northerly sea-breeze (which tends to chop up the water and make a mess of the waves). Budding surfer chicks are particularly well catered for as over half the school’s instructors are female. Let’s Go Surfing (letsgosurfing.com.au)
Manly Beach – Sydney, New South Wales: Manly is second in popularity only to Bondi with visitors to Sydney so its surf instructors are also well used to looking after people with little experience of the ocean. Manly Surf School (manlysurfschool.com)
Noosa – Sunshine Coast, Queensland: Noosa’s semi-tropical climate is a big plus if you plan on taking lessons during the winter months, when the ocean further south can get decidedly chilly. The waves here are famously easy to ride too and seem to break forever. Wavesense Surf Coaching (wavesense.com.au).
Byron Bay – northern New South Wales: Being able to tell people you learned to surf at Byron Bay is like being able to say you honed your football skills in Brazil; if you’re keen to immerse yourself completely in surf culture, this is the place. Sunrise Surfing (sunrisesurfing.com).
Secret Harbour – Perth, Western Australia: Good waves are scarce around Perth so the few decent breaks can turn into territorial battlegrounds. Secret Harbour is great choice for beginners as it’s a 35-minute drive from the city and far less crowded than Perth’s suburban beaches. Big Wave Surfing School (bigwavesurfingschool.com).
Co-founder of the original Aussie counter-culture surf bible, "Tracks", Falzon lives up to his reputation as the spiritual father of the alternative surf lifestyle. Falzon still lives on an eco-friendly farm he bought in the early 1970s near the NSW mid-north coast, where he cares for and feeds injured wildlife, before loading up his boards and driving to the beach for a surf.
And it seems that the "Morning of the Earth" lifestyle he so expertly captured in the early 1970s, is still very much a part of the man today. "Keep surfing, have a good time and have fun. Bless all of you and thank you so much for this", said Alby at the Arts Centre, on the Gold Coast.
